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March 31, 2023
The 100% whole-cluster 2021 Syrah Sangiacomo Vineyard was foot trodden and aged in 50% new French oak (water-bent Saury). It delivers crazy-complex aromatics, with hints of violets, various sorts of resinous herbs, raspberries, cherries and even a touch of orange zest. Medium-bodied and silky in texture, it finishes long, with enticing notes of licorice. I’d enjoy it young for its seductive bouquet.
Myriad is the personal label of winemaker Mike Smith and his wife, Leah. I caught up with them last fall at Tench’s winery, just off the Silverado Trail. Smith, a Portland (Oregon) native, starting working with Thomas Rivers Brown in 1999 and then launched the first Myriad wines from the 2005 vintage. Myriad sources fruit from some of Napa’s most famous vineyards, including several different bottlings made from Beckstoffer-grown fruit. The 2021s—largely tasted as barrel samples—are super efforts, showing ample weight and concentration, superbly ripe fruit and creamy textures and lingering, surprisingly balanced finishes. Nearly all will be worth a special effort to track down.
